[Nine patients remain of the many former leprosy patients who
chose to continue to live in Kalaupapa despite the 1969 repeal of the
Hawaii law that exiled them there until death.]
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HAWAII’S STRICTEST PANDEMIC POLICIES HAVE CREATED A LONELY
EXISTENCE FOR KALAUPAPA’S SURVIVING ‘OUTCASTS’  
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Brittany Lyte
January 24, 2022
Civil Beat

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_ Nine patients remain of the many former leprosy patients who chose
to continue to live in Kalaupapa despite the 1969 repeal of the Hawaii
law that exiled them there until death. _

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Jutting out from perilously steep sea cliffs, Kalaupapa Peninsula is a
remote windswept outpost with a difficult history as the place where
thousands of people afflicted with Hansen’s disease were banished to
live segregated from the rest of society.

Conditions were so deplorable in the early and mid-1800s that being
cast off to Kalaupapa was synonymous with certain death.

Nine patients remain of the many former leprosy patients who chose to
continue to live in Kalaupapa despite the 1969 repeal of the Hawaii
law that exiled them there until death.

Ranging in age from 80 to 97, these last living patients reside in the
former leprosy colony on Molokai with support from the Hawaii
Department of Health, which provides them with furnished homes,
nursing staff and stipends for food and clothing.

The settlement’s non-patient inhabitants have made strides to
reconnect with the patients, holding their hands when they speak as a
gentle reminder that society is no longer afraid of them.

Enter the coronavirus pandemic.

The emergence of Covid-19 prompted state health regulators to impose
aggressive restrictions to protect Kalaupapa’s former Hansen’s
disease patients. Far stricter than pandemic rules enacted by the rest
of the state, these policies have shaped a safe but lonely existence
for the patients, who have not been permitted to see their families in
the settlement since early March 2020.

As the pandemic enters its third year, most of Kalaupapa’s pandemic
rules have not relaxed
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A blanket no-visitor policy is still intact. Mandatory face masking
and physical distancing rules remain in place — even in outdoor
settings. Gathering is prohibited in groups larger than five.

Frequent telecommunications blackouts make life in Kalaupapa during
the pandemic all the more isolating.

When despair set in following the non-Covid deaths of three former
patients during the pandemic, one patient asked, “What is living?”

That’s according to Miki’ala Pescaia, who has befriended the
patients and educates people about Kalaupapa and its sordid history as
a Kalaupapa National Historical Park
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“They were banished here to keep everybody else safe and now, a few
years later, we’re flipping the script,” Pescaia said. “And
it’s been really hard for them.”

The patients fear the virus, but they sometimes beg for forbidden
hugs. Some of those who suffer from memory loss due to old age
occasionally confuse living in lockdown from the coronavirus with
earlier experiences of being shunned by the world as a leprosy
patient.

“This is the second time in their lives that they have been put in
an isolation situation because of a rampant disease,” said Richard
Miller, a Protestant minister who moved to Kalaupapa almost two
decades ago to work for the National Park Service.

“The irony, almost, is this time it was to protect them,” he said.
“The first time it was to put them away from everyone and this time
it was to keep the outside world and the problems of the pandemic away
from them.”

“But the psychological or emotional reaction had to have been
similar,” Miller said. “How could it not have been similar?”

‘We All Would Like It To Be Different’

A matter of debate: Was Kalaupapa the nation’s final county to get
the coronavirus, or is it the only county that has evaded it?

The 10,700-acre peninsula, which is incorporated as Kalawao County
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by the state health department, has so far reported a single positive
Covid-19 infection, in December 2020.

But depending on who you talk to in the settlement, the person who
tested positive was asymptomatic. And an antibody test later showed
that the person probably never had Covid — a possibility the DOH
said it did not have knowledge of but couldn’t rule out, either.

“Our one positive case was a false positive, but we were never able
to undo that narrative,” Pescaia said. “So for us, we’re still
Covid-free.”

But maintaining that status has taken a lot of sacrifice.

Before the pandemic, Kalaupapa had fewer than 100 inhabitants —
mainly National Park Service employees and health workers — as well
as up to 100 daily visitors on bus tours. Only about 40 people were
left by early March 2020 when the pandemic prompted job furloughs and
forced evictions for residents whose work there was deemed
nonessential.

With travel to and from the remote peninsula restricted, the DOH
initially introduced policies that allowed residents to freely
recreate and exercise outdoors on their own, so long as they followed
physical distancing and mask-wearing guidelines.

That strategy didn’t work, according to Ken Seamon, the DOH
Kalaupapa administrator who helped develop pandemic policies for the
settlement.

Kalaupapa residents include federal workers from the U.S. Postal
Service and the National Parks Service, as well as state employees of
the health and transportation departments.

Federal employees were hearing from President Donald Trump that
mask-wearing wasn’t required, while state employees were hearing
from Gov. David Ige that masks were mandatory.

On the ground, these mixed messages created problems.

So the health department decided to view the entire Kalaupapa
peninsula as a care home, putting it under stricter Covid prevention
rules than anywhere else in the state.

For months, Miller said the patients were so sequestered that it felt
like they had vanished. The only people the patients could come in
close contact with was the nursing staff.

“We are restricted in so many ways, which is difficult,” Miller
said. “On the other hand, it feels like a very safe place. I don’t
think anybody likes that you can’t have visitors or that we are all
masked all the time and that we maintain all of the distancing
requirements. But you just do it, whether you like it or not. We all
would like it to be different, but so would the rest of the world.”

The patients have not been happy with these persistent restrictions on
their freedoms, Seamon said, but they’ve been understanding of them,
as well as appreciative of the DOH to the point of expecting the
agency to keep them from getting Covid.

Unquestionably, Kalaupapa’s resident patients are at high risk of
death or severe illness from Covid.

They continue to suffer from disabilities related to Hansen’s
disease, such as long-term foot ulcers stemming from nerve damage and
loss of sensation, as well as chronic conditions associated with
aging, such as diabetes and congestive heart failure.

When a patient requires medical attention in excess of the kind of
care offered in a nursing home, they’re flown to Oahu for more
advanced treatment. Four patients resided at the 14-bed Hale Mohalu
Care Home in Honolulu on a long-term basis last year.

“We miss them when they go out because we don’t know when
they’ll be able to come back,” said Sister Alicia Damien Lau, one
of two Catholic nuns who reside in Kalaupapa.

Another Christmas Without Gatherings

After the delta wave but before the onset of omicron, the DOH had
planned to allow patients to receive visitors in the settlement for
the first time since the onset of the pandemic.

But omicron’s arrival and swift spread across Hawaii quashed hopes
for a repeal of the no-visitor rule.

“This Christmas they really wanted to see their families,” Lau
said.

Kalaupapa’s aging telecommunications infrastructure frequently
malfunctions, severing the settlement’s connection to the outside
world. Weeks-long telephone, internet and cable television outages are
routine. During stretches of the pandemic when doctors were barred
from traveling to Kalaupapa for in-person visits, these outages
curtailed the ability of patients to use telehealth to access timely
medical consultations.

One such outage prevented at least one patient from talking to his
family this past Christmas.

In 2018, Kalaupapa acquired 10 public Wi-Fi hotspots that provide an
hour of free service as part of the rollout of 100 hotspots in state
parks and other public spaces. But many patients don’t have smart
devices to make use of the hotspots.

The delivery of an iPad to the settlement in late 2021, however,
marked a bright spot in a difficult pandemic period for the patient
who received it.

“This patient was just absolutely excited about the iPad, calling
family on the mainland and FaceTiming,” according to Lau, who said
the iPad was funded by grant money.

Lau visited Kalaupapa for the first time in 1965, at age 21, on the
eve of her entry into the convent and before the repeal of the
state’s forced isolation law for leprosy patients. She has
intermittently volunteered in the settlement as a nun and as a nurse
since the 1980s, moving to the settlement permanently in 2019.

She said the pandemic years have been quiet, sad and psychologically
strenuous — above all for the patients, but also for the
settlement’s other residents.

Lau hasn’t left Kalaupapa in nearly two years. She’s one of many
residents who’ve opted out of travel to remain available for the
needs of the patients.

In December, Lau made the difficult decision to stay put even upon the
death of her sister.

“My goal is to be here until the last patient goes,” said Lau, who
is 77. “So I’ve got to keep myself well enough to do that.”

At one point during the pandemic, Pescaia could not leave her home in
the settlement for 11 consecutive weeks. That’s because her husband,
also a park ranger, would hike out of the settlement every two weeks
to check on the couple’s children in topside Molokai, a term for all
the rest of the island outside of Kalaupapa, where they were learning
remotely in the family’s home. Every time he returned to the
settlement, the couple was subject to a two-week quarantine even
though Pescaia hadn’t left.

For Seamon, the pandemic has stripped Kalaupapa of some of its
character.

“It’s shocked me into a very small, small, small understanding of
what the patients went through when they got here,” he said.
“It’s not as much a home as it used to be for me; now it’s more
so a job.”

‘The Magic Is Being Lost’

When the last patient dies and the DOH’s responsibility for
providing patient care at Kalaupapa ends, there are big decisions to
be made about Kalaupapa’s future
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Ownership of DOH property and infrastructure is expected to transfer
to the Hawaii Department of Hawaiian Home Lands. It’s anticipated
that the National Park Service will continue to lease the majority of
the peninsula.

Ultimately the Hawaii Legislature will have the most say in shaping
Kalaupapa’s post-pandemic, post-patient existence. Quarterly
meetings gather stakeholders from the DOH, National Parks Service,
Department of Hawaiian Home Lands, Maui County and the U.S. Department
of Interior’s Office of Native Hawaiian Relations and other relevant
agencies to coordinate emergency services in Kalaupapa, which has no
police, firefighters or hospital, and to discuss the settlement’s
uncertain future.

“Kalaupapa is never going to be the same,” Pescaia said.
“There’s so much that has changed in the dynamics of the
community, and rebuilding the new Kalaupapa post-pandemic is going to
look way different. It’ll never, ever, be the way it was before.”

One reason for that, according to Pescaia, is that rebuilding a
post-pandemic Kalaupapa will likely bring a sudden influx of new staff
who will descend on the remote enclave in stark contrast to the way
new residents have always slowly trickled in.

New residents are typically invited to join card games and volleyball
games. They go fishing with the uncles. They talk story on the pier.
They become acquainted with the spirit of the place through
experiential learning.

They also learn about Kalaupapa’s unique set of rules put in place
to protect patient mental health.

The patients were once subject to beatings for not wearing shoes.
That’s because Hansen’s disease patients often suffer from nerve
damage and loss of sensation. With bare feet, a cut on the foot could
easily go undetected and grow infected. So the modern-day settlement
has a rule: No bare feet.

Children under the age of 16 are prohibited from entering the
settlement since patients were discouraged from having children.
Parents had their newborn babies taken away from them
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of fear that their disease would be passed on to their children.

Children under the age of 16 are prohibited from entering the
settlement since patients were discouraged from having children.
Parents had their newborn babies taken away from them
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of fear that their disease would be passed on to their children.

The only time a child can enter Kalaupapa is at the request of a
patient. But there are rules governing these visits to keep the child
out of sight of the settlement where patients freely roam.

Absorbing new inhabitants into Kalaupapa incrementally and with great
care is critical, Pescaia said, because this sort of initiation
process helps protect the settlement from outside influence.

Although pandemic restrictions have made the peninsula practically
impervious to the rest of world, Pescaia said the prolonged inability
to gather has dampened Kalaupapa’s community spirit in irreparable
ways.

“All of the magic is being lost now,” she said.

_Civil Beat’s coverage of Maui County is supported in part by a
grant from the Nuestro Futuro Foundation._

Brittany Lyte is a reporter for Civil Beat. You can reach her by email
at [email protected] or follow on Twitter at @blyte
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