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THE COMPASS

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Japan

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERT HARDING PICTURE LIBRARY, NAT GEO IMAGE COLLECTION

In Japan, a deep reverence for nature and tradition vies with a fascination of all that is futuristic—and this jarring contrast is part of the country’s strong allure. Neon-lit cityscapes, ancient temples clinging to forested hillsides, and markets brimming with exotic ingredients: Japan is a feast for the senses. In this edition, we travel to Fukushima, where a decade after disaster, wildlife abounds, learn about the history—and future—of the Japanese monarchy, and discover the fascinating history behind the popular "waving lucky cat."
Let's explore Japan.

ANIMALS

A new generation of animals has moved into abandoned areas after the 2011 nuclear disaster forced more than 160,000 people to evacuate the region.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MANABU SEKINE

Photos: A decade after disaster, wildlife abounds in Fukushima

A photographer documented the resurgence of wildlife in a Japanese village abandoned after the Fukushima nuclear accident.

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Some fishers in Japan still practice ukai, in which cormorants dive for a fresh catch.

THE ASAHI SHIMBUN VIDEO VIA GETTY
BLOOMBERG CREATIVE PHOTOS VIA GETTY

This ancient Japanese tradition uses birds to catch fish

Some fishers in Japan still practice ukai, in which cormorants dive for a fresh catch.

Hercules beetles, like this one in an insect exhibition last year at Japan’s Fukuoka Science Museum, are a favorite among Japanese collectors. Conservationists worry about the dwindling number of satanas beetles, a related rhinoceros beetle endemic to Bolivia, which are also in demand in Japan and elsewhere as pets.

PHOTOGRAPH BY THE YOMIURI SHIMBUN/AP IMAGES

Why rare beetles are being smuggled to Japan at an alarming rate

Big-horned rhinoceros beetles, taken from Bolivia, are ending up in Japan's illegal pet trade—and in beetle wrestling matches.

This newly described species of pygmy seahorse (Hippocampus japapigu) blends into the algae-covered rocks where it lives in Japan.

PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD SMITH

This colorful new seahorse is the size of a grain of rice

Researchers have discovered a tiny new species of pygmy seahorse that inhabits the boulder-strewn coasts of Japan.

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CULTURE

Japanese Emperor Hirohito poses with his wife, Empress Nagako. After World War II, the United States forced Hirohito, in whose name Japan had fought the Allies, to renounce any connection to divinity.

PHOTOGRAPH BY BETTMANN, GETTY

Learn about the history—and future—of the Japanese monarchy

Emperor Akihito was the first ruler to abdicate the Chrysanthemum Throne, and the future of the ceremonial position remains murky.

Kana Wasai prepares tea during a class by Yumiko Takada in Tokyo, Japan. The Japanese tea ceremony is considered a fine art. It embodies masterful preparation, with the guest always at the forefront of the host's mind.

PHOTOGRAPH BY LISA MAREE WILLIAMS, GETTY IMAGES

This tea master is preserving an ancient art for future generations

The sensei from Japan began learning how to host the ceremonies when she was just six years old.

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PLAYFULNESS At home, and exported to the world, much of Tokyo’s playful image and creative culture comes from anime, gaming, and cosplay.

PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID GUTTENFELDER

A photographer's journey through the rich texture of Japan's vibrant megacity.

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Trainers with the Sen-zu No Sarumawashi performance group in Kawasaki take their diapered charges on daily walks in the streets. In the earliest stage of sarumawashi (monkey performance) training, baby monkeys are taught to sit on tiny stools. Gradually they learn to walk on stilts and vault over hurdles.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JASPER DOEST

Circus-like performances by snow monkeys in Japan contradict their long-revered status

Considered messengers of the gods, the macaques are now made to wear costumes, do backflips, and walk on stilts to please crowds.

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TRAVEL

DREAM NOW, GO LATER

Sea winds sweep over Tottori's rolling sand dunes along Japan's coast. The area has shrunk in recent years due to changing sea currents and the encroachment of plants.

PHOTOGRAPH BY SEAN PAVONE, ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

See Japan's surprising sand dunes

Escape the big city lights and get lost in this spectacular desertscape.

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The maneki-neko, also known as the welcoming cat, lucky cat, money cat, happy cat, and beckoning cat, dates back to the 17th century and has since become one of the most popular features in Asian businesses.

PHOTOGRAPH BY RICHARD MILNES, ALAMY

The fascinating history behind the popular 'waving lucky cat'

With an inviting raised paw and pointy red ears, these iconic lucky charms have been bringing good fortune for centuries.

Children dressed as tanuki, or raccoon dogs, pose for a group portrait on Himeshima Island. Tanuki commonly appear in Japanese folklore as tricksters.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMILIO ESPEJEL

See Japan's beautiful festival of the dead

Families across Japan return home once a year to honor their deceased ancestors.

Master calligrapher Tadashi Kawamata writes on washi, traditional paper that is still handmade in some parts of Japan.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMES WHITLOW DELANO

Unlocking the mystery of Japan's perfect paper

Eco-friendly and adaptable, washi made the traditional way still thrives in towns steeped in history.

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WHERE WILL WE JOURNEY TO NEXT?

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