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THE COMPASS

Your navigation into the weekend

Stretching along the spectacular Adriatic coastline, Croatia brims with enchanting sites. From charming medieval cities to stunning shores, fall under the spell of this captivating country. In this edition, we see why the hints of a 7,200-year-old cheese are creating a scientific stink, learn why the DNA study of an ancient massacre raises more questions than answers, and travel to a seaside paradise that has made delicious wine for 2,400 years.
Let's explore Croatia.

SCIENCE

Known as rhyta, these large-handled Neolithic pots are the same type as the ones researchers claim harbor traces of ancient cheese.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SIBENIK CITY MUSEUM

Hints of 7,200-year-old cheese create a scientific stink

Traces of fats on pottery from Croatia may be the region's oldest known cheese, but the controversial claim has some experts holding their noses.

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This reconstruction of a Neanderthal female unveiled in 2008 was the first made using ancient DNA evidence.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JOE MCNALLY, NAT GEO IMAGE COLLECTION

New clues to how neanderthal genes affect your health

A genome from a female found in Croatia shows how conditions from schizophrenia to arthritis are influenced by our ancient human cousins.

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HISTORY

Some victims of the Potocani massacre received multiple lethal blows to the skull.

PHOTOGRAPH BY M. NOVAK

DNA study of 6,200-year-old massacre victims raises more questions than answers

Archaeologists assumed an extended family died in violence thouands of years ago, but the largest genetic study of a mass killing to date suggests otherwise.

GET A HAUNTING LOOK AT CROATIA'S ABANDONED ISLAND PRISON

VIDEO BY CATERS TV/BOB THISSEN

See the haunting ruins of a prison once known as a 'Living Hell'

The decrepit remains can still be seen by tourists willing to make the trek to the uninhabited island.

Explore Croatian food culture with Gordon Ramsay

Gordon Ramsay travels to the untouched peninsula of Istria, Croatia, for ingredients that rival the best of Italy in world-class quality. He fights for oxygen freediving for local mollusks, risks his pride fishing for rare cuttlefish and chases after goats for cheese and donkeys for milk. He learns the secrets to finding exquisite truffles and making exceptional olive oil before testing his newly found skills against local chef David Skoko.

TRAVEL

DREAM NOW, GO LATER

Beyond a glitzy harbor, the island of Hvar reveals ancient farming practices that earned UNESCO World Heritage status.

PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG PEARSON, GETTY IMAGES

This Croatian seaside paradise has made delicious wine for 2,400 years

Locals on the Adriatic island of Hvar have cultivated olive groves and vineyards since Greek colonists arrived in the 4th century B.C.

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Pebblestone beach offers a resting spot for kayakers and a chance to visit Veli Rat lighthouse.

PHOTOGRAPH BY MARKO MALIK

Why Croatia is the next top kayaking destination

Sea kayaking and paddleboarding offer the newest way to soak in Croatia's stunning coastal beauty.

Once flying through the air on the day that ended a 20-year marriage, this garden gnome now sits in the Museum of Broken Relationships in Zagreb, Croatia.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALAN VAJDIC, MUSEUM OF BROKEN RELATIONSHIPS

This museum memorializes failed love

Stories of love and heartache from around the world fill the Museum of Broken Relationships.

Enjoy the buzz of Split, the second largest city in Croatia.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANNA GORIN, GETTY IMAGES

Top 5 places in Croatia (beyond Dubrovnik)

With breathtaking nature, charming architecture, and a long Adriatic coastline, there's plenty to see in this spectacular country.

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WHERE WILL WE JOURNEY TO NEXT?

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