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Waqra Pukará: Peru's mysterious 'horned fortress' - (Full Access)   

Our first visit to Machu Picchu in November 2020 was hard to top. The weather was atmospherically foggy, with occasional sunbeams breaking through the morning mist and dappling the ruins with dramatic lighting. Llamas and alpacas milled about, chewing grass and posing majestically. A lone vizcacha (think of a large squirrel, but with oversized rabbit-like ears) scrambled along some rocks on the periphery of the site. The Andean air was cool and invigorating. The best part? Most of the photos from our visit are completely devoid of other tourists.

However, this was an anomaly. We got stuck in Peru during the pandemic, waited patiently in the Sacred Valley for 10 months, and then during the initial local reopening, went to check out the iconic archaeological site. Obviously, this was an experience we blindly lucked into, and one that few people (Peruvians or otherwise) will ever get. On a typical day, more than 4,000 tourists are allowed into the site. The experience can feel rushed, photos are often obscured by the hordes and comparisons to the jostling crowds of Disney World are inevitable. And that experience is about to get significantly more crowded, as starting from 1 January 2024, Peru's tourism ministry has increased the number of daily allowed tourists at Machu Picchu to 4,500 – and that limit could reach as high 5,600 on specific, high-traffic days. These changes will almost certainly negatively impact the integrity of the site, but as Peru's financial and political troubles continue, the government is seeking to grow the revenue from its largest tourist draw. From a purely economic viewpoint, it's understandable; the nation's tourism board estimates it received 2.2 million tourists in 2023, a significant drop from the pre-Covid 4.6 million of 2019.

From 1 Jan 2024, the cap on the number of daily tourists allowed at Machu Picchu has increased (Credit: Kelly Cheng Travel Photography/Getty Images)

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