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Why Does So Much ‘Korean’ Fine Dining Still Feel So French? - Grub Street   

Was this my Ratatouille moment? I was wet, cold, and running late to dinner. I had just returned to New York from Seoul earlier this week when I herniated my back. Then came the rains, another reminder that we’re just one meteorological disaster away from infrastructural collapse. The subway wasn’t running; we got stuck in traffic. Still, I made it to Meju, Hooni Kim’s intimate eight-seat chef’s table in the back of Little Banchan Shop in Long Island City, just as the first course descended, a pale, custardy tofu with a bright-red accent of gochugaru, chives, and poached mangadak (shimeji) mushrooms. The waiter then poured a broth of dwenjang-guk, a fermented soybean paste stew, that returned me to my senses. “Happy Chuseok,” Kim said, as I took a deep sip of the copper-toned broth: earthy and dank with an enlivening minerality and kick of spice. I felt a time skip in my gut.

The dwenjang came from his 2015 batch. Meju refers to the dried blocks of soybeans tied with dried rice stalks that, in a bustle of probiotic activity, eventually yields the three pillars of Korean cooking: dwenjang, ganjang (soy sauce), and gochujang (fermented red-pepper paste). With Meju, Kim lights another path for Korean fine dining in New York, one built around time and a relationship with the earth. Meju elevates the familial relationship to food, where each house would have their own field of jangs to draw from. “I was born to cook, but not born to cook in a New York restaurant,” says Kim, who also opened Danji and Hanjan over the past decade. “I designed Meju so it makes you feel like you’re visiting me at my home.” (The speakers come from his house, which is across the street.) He only does one seating a night, three nights a week, in part so dinners can linger into the night.

The food served over the next couple of hours traces the development of his philosophy: He’ll speak of his mentor, a Korean medicine man that he makes jangs with, and how he learned to stop “chasing flavor.” Next was ganjang, and he prepared a variety of jeons delivered piping hot from the frying pan, just like mom would, including a molten zucchini coin, golden pollack, and yukjeon, a thin slice of beef battered, fried, and brushed with a 128-year-old soy. Instead of caviar, he dabbed some of the century-old soy sauce onto the backs of our hands. For two ssamjangs — a mix of dwenjang and gochujang that Kim also adds walnuts to — there’s a bouquet of lettuce, perilla leaves, and vegetables, an array of banchan, and servings of strip steak and galbi. After that there’s pork belly and kimchi jjim alongside a bowl of white rice and a fried egg: The lobes of cabbage are soft with that sweet sourness kimchi acquires after too much time in the jar. There’s nowhere to hide — no MSG, caviar, or truffles. All of it is astonishingly honest food. “I made Meju as a response to Jungsik, Atomix, all that,” Kim says.

Continued here



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