[Rising temperatures, lack of water and encroaching development
are creating tough conditions for the crucial California crop. Their
continued viability could all depend on strengthening the lands on
which they sit. ]
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PORTSIDE CULTURE

ALMONDS ARE UNDER THREAT. THE KEY TO SAVING THEM COULD BE IN THE SOIL
 
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Emily Baron Cadloff
July 14, 2023
Modern Farmer
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_ Rising temperatures, lack of water and encroaching development are
creating tough conditions for the crucial California crop. Their
continued viability could all depend on strengthening the lands on
which they sit. _

"What better use for water than agriculture?" says UC Davis's Jessica
Chiartis, "it’s the one industry that’s literally required for
survival.", Illustration by Adam Ming

 

As Brian Paddock walks through his 12-and-a-half acres of almond
trees, he’s taking in  everything. Paddock, like a lot of farmers,
is a details guy. He pays attention to each tree, to the soil
surrounding it, to the temperature and the wind speed.

But Paddock pays especially close attention to water usage, as much
for environmental reasons as economic ones. For instance, he knows
that he uses 0.87 gallons of water to grow one individual almond.
“Every gallon I pump, it’s like running a taxicab meter that just
keeps chipping away.”

He’s tinkered with different irrigation systems, moving from a
sub-surface drip setup to his current above-ground micro-sprayer,
which he says has the best distribution of water with the least waste.
For Paddock, maximizing “crop per drop”—getting the most yield
with the least amount of water—is important.

It’a not just because it’s cheaper and not just because Capay
Hills Orchard, his farm just north of Sacramento, is in an area of
California that is increasingly drought-prone. It’s also because
he’s on a mission to prove that almonds are a viable crop, now and
into the future.

Almonds are notorious for being a thirsty crop. It’s a reputation
that Paddock and other growers say isn’t deserved, but the idea has
circulated for years just the same. The Atlantic took aim at almonds
in 2014. Mother Jones put out a series of now legendary (within the
almond industry, at least) stories around the same time. Forbes wrote
about them last year. The New York Times has run op-eds on almonds,
along with the Los Angeles Times. 

The thing is, those reports are correct. The “water footprint” of
one almond—how much water it takes to grow a single nut—is
generally anywhere from one to three gallons, if you include rainwater
(Paddock is proud to point out that he sits below average when it
comes to water use). That’s hard to ignore. It’s similar for
pistachios, which use a little under a gallon, and even worse for
walnuts, which clock in at close to five gallons per nut. Almonds use
a lot of water, but just how much of the state’s precious resource
they use is contested. The Almond Board of California has said the
nuts use nine percent of the state’s agricultural water. The
nonprofit California Water Impact Network says that figure is actually
closer to 17 percent.

It’s also true that California farmers need to increasingly rely on
groundwater from wells during periods of drought, when there’s not
enough rain or surface water at their disposal. As the Forbes article
points out, thousands of wells across California have dried up in the
past decade.

With the majority of all almonds grown in California, there are
increasingly uncomfortable questions for the drought-prone state.
California is responsible for 80 percent of the world’s almonds, and
they bring billions of dollars into the state. They are the biggest
agricultural export in the state by far. But if California has limited
water, why keep growing almonds? Is it sustainable? Is it ethical?

“I gotta tell you, one of the worst days in my career is when the
Mother Jones article came out. Absolutely wrecked my world,” says
Joe Gardiner, a nut farmer and VP of business development with
Treehouse Almonds.

Treehouse Almonds sources nuts from roughly 50,000 acres in
California’s Central Valley, and Gardiner’s family farm provides
about 20,000 of them. The farm has changed a lot since his grandfather
ran it and grew tomatoes and potatoes. When his dad took over, they
transitioned to cotton and other row crops. And now, they grow mostly
almonds, with some pistachios as well.

Having worked with other crops, Gardiner says the idea that almonds
use more resources than anything else is simply not true. They may use
a lot of water, but so do most crops. It’s one of the building
blocks of agriculture.

It takes more than three gallons of water to grow a single tomato.
More than five gallons are needed for a head of broccoli. One orange
will soak up nearly 14 gallons of water. But something about the
amount of water almonds use has made a much bigger impact.

 “I don’t want to pin one crop against another,” says Gardiner,
emphasizing that this isn’t about which crop is “better” than
another. It’s about the utility of the crop and the broader picture.
Almonds are a shelf-stable source of protein, for one. Plus, there are
multiple uses for each nut harvested. “The outer almond hull, which
is over 50 percent of the weight of the almond, is sold as cattle
feed,” he says. “And guess what it replaces? Alfalfa, which uses
more water than almonds.” The shells are used in cosmetics, as
bedding for livestock and in biofuels.

Still, the pushback against almonds that began nearly a decade ago
rattled Gardiner. “I think that’s really what pushed me into my
own internal journey of looking at our own farm family operations to
say like, this isn’t our story. That’s not the whole picture
here… It was definitely a moment of questioning, is this correct? If
it is, how can we make it better?”

Almonds are certainly at risk. There are the water issues, of course.
In drought-prone California, water is more limited and consumer
perception of a crop that seems to take up more than its fair share is
dangerous.

There’s also the loss of farmland due to a confluence of factors.
Some studies show California’s farmland acreage will be reduced by
about 20 percent by 2040. Yields are predicted to drop as well, with
almonds and walnuts losing 20 percent and avocados potentially cutting
40 percent of their yields.

Some of that loss comes from rising temperatures. The state estimates
that average annual temperatures could rise by as much as 2.7 degrees
in the next 15 years. Beyond that, to 2069, temperatures could climb
another 5.8 degrees. By mid-century, state reports estimate that the
Central Valley, where many growers and farmers are located, could
experience extreme heat waves that last two weeks longer, and
heatwaves could occur four to 10 times more often in the northern part
of the state. So, as temperatures rise, growing regions in the hottest
and driest areas of the state may shrink, as growers are no longer
able to produce as much on the same tracts of land.

Almonds will be hit hard by a lack of winter chill hours—the period
when trees go into dormancy. Less chill time means the tree will go
into bloom early, or experience bud failure, if the tree hasn’t had
enough time in cooler temperatures to build back its resources for
another growing season. There is initial research looking into
heat-tolerant almonds, as well as pistachios and walnuts, with
researchers at the University of California, Davis looking to breed
more resilient and heat-tolerant genes into future trees, but that
work takes time.

Some of the land will be lost to development, or it will be used to
store wind or solar energy facilities. But a lot of those losses will
come down to water.

“I think that, especially in the case of water availability, the
writing’s on the wall at this point,” says Renata Brillinger,
executive director of the California Climate and Agricultural Network.
“I think growers are pretty clear now that whether it’s water
availability or regulations, they’re going to need to find ways to
adapt and modernize their approach to farming.”

Gardiner, for his part, is working at just that. In April of 2022, he
partnered up with The Almond Project, a collective made up of nut
brands, scientists, land trusts and now, the Gardiner family farm.
They sectioned off four plots and got to work. There are the
comparison plots of 75 acres each, one farmed conventionally and one
farmed organically. Then, there are two plots where they focus in on
soil health practices in both conventional and organic farming.
They’re implementing a range of strategies to reduce water use and
are testing as they go. There are sheep grazing between the trees,
cover crops of grasses and legumes, spot irrigation and increased
composting. It’s a lot of changes, but Gardiner says they’re
throwing a bunch of things at the wall to see what sticks.

Some of what the Gardiner farm is doing with The Almond Project is
already being done elsewhere but on a much smaller scale. Paddock is
an advocate of cover cropping on his farm, where he rotates in a
mixture of vetch, clover, pea, radish and mustard, and he brings in
sheep to graze every spring. It’s all in an effort to build up his
soil health.

“My orchard has a lot of trees,” says Paddock. “I’m not
looking at the trees. I spend half my time looking at the dirt.”

That sentiment is shared by Benina Burroughs Montes, co-founder and
managing partner of Burroughs Family Farms in Denair, California. The
650-acre almond farm is certified with the Regenerative Organic
Alliance, and Burroughs Montes follows the major principles of
regenerative farming, including use of cover crops, hedgerows and
extremely limited soil tilling.

“[Cover crops act as] natural weed suppression. They compete with
weeds for nutrients, sunlight and space, minimizing the need for
herbicides and manual weed control,” says Burroughs Montes  in an
email. She notes that the regenerative practices she follows on her
farm also help regulate temperature at the ground level, something
increasingly important for California crops. “Healthy soils with
good organic matter content can act as natural insulators, moderating
the temperature of the soil surface. This can contribute to more
stable ground temperatures, preventing extreme heat or cold conditions
that can impact plant health and productivity.”

Jessica Chiartis specializes in soil as a post-doctoral fellow at UC
Davis and is a consultant on The Almond Project. She says soil health
can be measured in a number of ways, with one of the most important
being how water filters into the ground. “That matters not just
because you want to avoid the pathogens and potential pathogens that
come from sustained flooding. But also, from a water storage
perspective, they’re getting that water infiltrated and stored.”

It might seem like common sense, but healthy soil can store more water
than unhealthy soil. A healthy soil is able to hold its shape well
when dug or disturbed, which means it is strong enough to hold water
without collapsing and letting the water drain away. Crops can draw
upon that water in times of drought, letting farmers ease up on
irrigation.

That’s why Paddock, Burroughs Montes and Gardiner are all working to
build the strongest soil they can. For Gardiner, applying these
techniques at scale will certainly be an undertaking and a change from
the conventional wisdom in the industry.

“For as long as I’ve been in the industry, the understanding was
that your orchard floor needs to be clean,” says Gardiner. One of
the biggest buyers of almonds has historically been confectionery and
chocolate companies. “When they would receive almonds, if they found
rocks, sticks, stones, anything in those almonds, they would go back
to a handler..and reject [the order.] It’d be a big, big food safety
issue.” In order to avoid fines or rejected shipments, Gardiner says
growers preached clean orchards. They got rid of all grasses and
weeds. “When it comes time to harvest, the only thing you’re
picking up is almonds, nothing else.”

But with improved electronics and x-rays on the processing side, the
food safety issue is not nearly as dire today. “So now, the focus is
going back to rebuilding our soils,” says Gardiner.

And Chiartis thinks cover cropping in orchards, or agroforestry in
general, could have a future in California. Just as the focus on crops
is often the water they’re using, Chiartis says we don’t think
about the water they’re putting back in the environment. “When you
think about the future climate of California, we need to think about
reducing evaporation.” That can be done with cover crops and by
co-planting companion crops in orchards. Dill helps attract
pollinators; catnip and scallions can deter pests. By placing these
crops in hedgerows or around the trees, the soil gains more nutrients,
stays a more consistent temperature and grows stronger. “Water
cycles are far more complicated than just water in, water out,” says
Chiartis. “What better use for water than agriculture? I worry that
with climate change, we’re expecting agriculture to bear the burden,
when it’s the one industry that’s literally required for
survival.”

But the big question is: Is any of this happening fast enough? Are we
finding ways to get smarter about water or work within more effective
systems fast enough to outpace the droughts?

For regenerative farmer Burroughs Montes, the answer is clear. “The
industry is behind. Everyone needs to start today. We can’t think
that the government is going to bail us out or that we can buy
ourselves out of this,” she says. “Like the majority of
independent farmers, our priority has always been the health of our
land, animals and community. Regenerative agriculture provides a
workable pathway for us to ensure the health of the industry for
future generations.”

For Renata Brillinger at CalCAN, the answer is more complex. “The
state of California has put in place quite a number of programs, not
just in agriculture, but across the economy. They’ve got very
ambitious targets that are in line with the scientific imperative,”
they say. “It’s incredibly complicated. And when it comes to
farming, which is operating in a biological system, it’s even more
complex because it’s not mechanistic, like figuring out how to build
a new electric car. And when we’re talking about working within the
constraints of water and soil and biodiversity, then it’s even
harder.”

With all of those issues to consider, and in the face of rising
temperatures and recurring droughts, some farmers have been ripping
out their almond groves as they’re simply not able to grow in these
conditions.

“A lot of people are looking at just fallowing fields, because
they’re worried about water use or water allocation,” says
Chiartis. “There does need to be a huge shift in how we think about
and how we grow food. Instead of just throwing our hands up and saying
‘California just won’t be able to produce as many crops in the
future’, we can start looking at how we can improve soil health and
build resilience, think a little more outside the box of how to
develop a diversified system. You know, we could be developing
technology and equipment that allows for things like agroforestry to
happen at a large scale.”

California will lose farmland, and there will be further restrictions
on water usage. But people are trying to find ways to lessen the
damage—without resorting to abandoning crops or letting fields
fallow. One weapon in the fight is stronger soil, capable of
withstanding the floods, droughts and heatwaves of the near future.
Those big changes would require getting large, conventional farmers on
board. Some huge growers, such as Gardiner’s family farm and
Treehouse Almonds, are already testing out different methods and
making future plans based on their findings.

Still, many smaller farmers such as Paddock are concerned. “When I
drive to Sacramento or something, and I look to the left, to the
right… [I think] ‘that used to be farmland.’”

_This story is part of State of Abundance, a five-part series about
California agriculture and climate change. See the full series here._

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