There are many methods for shopping at farmers tailgate markets. There’s the make-a-list-in-advance tactic (we offer a weekly rundown here for that kind of shopper). There’s the do-a-lap-first-then-form-a-plan strategy. And then there’s the grab-everything-that-looks-good-and-figure-it-out-later approach. It’s after shopping excursions like the latter that we fully appreciate a dish like succotash.
Succotash is a truly American recipe, though not necessarily Southern, despite what you might have heard. Its roots are Native American, with the Narragansett word msíckquatash translating loosely as “boiled corn kernels.” Despite these Northeastern beginnings, permutations of succotash have firmly embedded themselves in the foodways of regions across the county, including Southern Appalachia. Aside from corn, ingredients might include beans, summer squash, winter squash, tomatoes, okra, peppers, eggplant, and more. Basically, you can simmer just about any seasonal vegetables with corn, salt, and fat and call it succotash. This is what makes it clutch for utilizing a full market bag.
Historically, succotash centered around the Three Sisters—corn, beans, and squash—which many Native American tribes cultivated as companion crops. Winter succotash was made from dried corn and beans along with pumpkin. The more widely imitated summer version is made with fresh corn, shelling beans, and summer squash. Sometimes succotash is simmered with heavy cream, sometimes butter, often with bacon or other pork fat. Or you can keep it vegan and use only olive oil.
Shell beans are not as common at our area markets as beans eaten pod and all, though a few farms will start to have edamame soon, which can stand in for the more traditional lima beans. Or simply substitute whatever green/yellow/purple beans caught your eye this week. Start with a base of sweet onions and garlic sauteed in bacon fat or olive oil until softened. Add corn kernels, beans, and other vegetables like zucchini, okra, eggplant, or peppers (slice or chop these into roughly half-inch pieces, or smaller for hot peppers). If you found shell beans, you’ll want to cook those separately first. Simmer the vegetables in their own juices for about 5–10 minutes, until everything is just tender, then stir in a few tablespoons of butter and/or heavy cream.
Halved cherry tomatoes, added just at the end and barely simmered, lend the right amount of acid and sweetness. Finish with chopped herbs—we’re partial to basil at this time of year, but tarragon, thyme, or chives are also great. Season with salt and pepper. An ample shake of hot sauce would not be amiss, especially if you have a fermented one from Sweet Brine’d, Serotonin Ferments, or Fermenti on hand. Though it is usually presented as a side dish, you can make succotash the main event served with a bit of crusty bread to sop up the sauce, or top it with grilled sausage or scallops.
Other produce at markets now includes melons, peaches, nectarines, blackberries, blueberries, pears, plums, apples, eggplant, potatoes, fennel, carrots, beets, lettuce, salad mix, chard, bok choy, cabbage, sprouts, microgreens, and mushrooms. You can also find eggs, cheese, meat, seafood, bread, fermented products, baked goods, and so much more.
Area farmers tailgate markets take place throughout the region. As always, you can find information about farms, tailgate markets, and farm stands, including locations and hours, by visiting ASAP’s online Local Food Guide at appalachiangrown.org.
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Photo of the Month +
Photo Contest
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Our August photo of the month, by Chelsea Lane Photography, captures the season with a tomato and burrata salad from The Montford Bar and Lounge. Tomatoes are fresh from Asheville City Market and the basil was grown in the restaurant's own rooftop garden, planted by Ivy Creek Family Farm.
Have local food and farm photos you'd like to see featured here? ASAP's 2020 calendar photo contest is open for submissions now! We're looking for photos that depict your experiences with local food and farms, with particular emphasis on the seasons. The contest is open to amateur and professional photographers, and you may submit as many photos as you like. Photos received by Friday, Sept. 20 will be given first consideration. Visit our website for contest rules and and submission information.
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ASAP's mission is to help local farms thrive, link farmers to markets and supporters, and build healthy communities through connections to local food.
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The Moreno family’s farming roots stretch back to Mexico where Salvador Moreno Sr. herded goats through the desert. His son, Salvador Moreno Jr., shares the story of how they started SMM Farms and became an integral part of the Hayesville, NC, community on this week's Growing Local.
You can listen to all
Growing Local episodes on SoundCloud, iTunes, or on ASAP's website.
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Local Food & Farms in the News
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Eater Charleston checks in with Asheville's Chef William Dissen in an ode to tomato pie.
The Mountain Xpress looks at healthy meal prep services, including some that source from local farms like Gaining Ground Farm and R Farm.
Local flower farmers are front and center in Capital at Play's August issue.
Look forward to celebrating sustainable gardening and farming in the Mountain Xpress preview of next weekend's Get Off the Grid Fest.
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Want to intern with ASAP (or know someone who might)? We're now accepting applications for fall interns for photography, communications, and local food promotions. Find more information here.
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